Saenkham Terrace is an upscale Thai restaurant.Saenkham Terrace Restaurant
By Benjamin Malcolm
The restaurants that are the most memorable are those that combine culinary and architectural creativeness into one complete package. With their dual emphasis on food and interior design, these places appeal not only to a diner's particular gastronomical desire, but to an overall feeling of relaxation and comfort.
Such is the case with Chiang Mai's Saenkham Terrace Restaurant.
At first glance, a fancy restaurant in the midst of a condo unit on the outskirts of the city; at second glance, a unique contribution to the art of mixing food and aesthetics, with an emphasis on interior design and "terrace" concept.
Owners Somjed Srithongkham and Wanpen Sakdatorn set out for a complete re-design of their restaurant less than a year ago, replacing a rather fancy and yet ordinary dining room with a brand-new Northern-style art and food combination.
"It was really Wanpen's concept," said Srithongkham, "She wanted to renovate the whole restaurant into Lanna style."
The main emphasis in this Lanna style is the emphasis of the terrace - popular among the wooden houses of the north. Traditionally, the terrace area in Northern Thai architecture is the main area of the house in which family members can relax, dine and even take an afternoon siesta. Thus, for Saenkham, the terrace is the focal point.
It is obvious upon climbing the stairs to the second-floor restaurant that you're in for something different, as the stair banister is constructed completely of rattan, a soft guide for the hands as you climb away from the heat of the day into the air-conditioned wooden confines of the main dining area.
Much attention has been paid to making people feel relaxed and both owners maintain an active presence to ensure the smooth sailing of the restaurant. On the day I visited, I met the stylishly dressed Sakdatorn, in northern Thai dress and head scarf, who greeted us and conversed about the changes and features of the restaurant.
Visitors have their choice of dining either inside or out on the balconies. Either way, they're treated to a spectacular range of scenery; - rice fields heading off into the distance before the looming presence of Doi Suthep, the temple mountain that overlooks Chiang Mai. On the other side are the tennis courts and swimming pool of Ban Naifan; the vast white walled condominium complex that houses the restaurant.
Art, and the craftwork of the north, are everywhere.
"This is the meaning of terrace in Lanna … people used the terrace for weaving and basketry," explained Srithongkham.
Interior Designer Yutthana Mohprasit has made the most of this, delicately incorporating the feel of the traditions of the north in and about. A black and gold painting by Vichit Chaiwong (of nearby Gong Dee Gallery), over the main entrance to the dining room, displays the elegance of Thai textiles, while other artwork, by Santi Channongsuang, depicts Lanna people and their close relationship with basketry and weaving.
The architecture of temples figures prominently in the restaurant's design. The exterior walls borrow from Thai temple design, while the white ceiling and roof borrow from Lanna temple style.
The architecture is one attraction; the other is the food.
The bill of fare features an array of about 120 dishes overall, with a strong portion of central Thai, northern Thai, and fish dishes.
My dining partner and I tried three of the house favourites - an appetizer of fried Shitake mushrooms and main entrees of Burmese-style pork curry and fried asparagus with shrimp. The mushrooms come with a special three-flavoured sauce, combining garlic, lime, and chilies with other secret ingredients and they were delicious. The pork curry, one of the four-starred entrees, was thick and creamy, perfect over a bowl of white rice.
The food is served on terra cotta pottery, dishes and plates, over a silk tablecloth. The metal utensils are sturdy, heavy, metal and silver specialty items made exclusively for the restaurant from a crafts shop in Singburi.
Details are everything here; everything, even the bathrooms, have been upgraded and made luxurious.
The other standout quality is price. For all its attentions to detail and food preparation, the cost has been kept to a reasonable level. All entrees are around 90 Baht (except for the higher-end fish dishes).
House specialties are starred in the menu and run the gamut from appetizers to entrees, from river fish to Northern sausage.
Among the appetizers are the Vietnamese Spring Rolls and the Thai-style papaya salad with fried pork or beef; while the entrees include lemongrass salad, spicy herbs salad and northern mushroom in chili paste curry. Fish favourites include fried sheat fish with garlic, spicy deep-fried minced catfish salad and the steamed sea bass.
To top it off, there are an interesting variety of local ice creams, including jackfruit, tarot, pandan and fan palm.
I chose jackfruit and lingered over it, enjoying its creamy sweetness while talking to Sakdatorn and enjoying the comfort from the hot afternoon, not wanting to head home too soon from the tasty delights and grand confines of this unique northern restaurant.
Paul's Rating
Food Quality 8
Service 7
Ambiance 8
Value 7
Average cost per meal excluding alcohol: 300 - 350 per person
DIRECTIONS to Saenkham Terrace Restaurant
From Kad Suen Kaew go towards CMU until the Canal Road. Turn left and follow the Canal Road 8.6 Kilometers to a right turn into Mouban Naifan. There’s a sign that says Saenkham Terrace Clubhouse. Follow the road straight for about .6 kilometers and you’ll see a lawn with elephant statues and right behind that is Saenkham Terrace Club House, a large building on a hill on your right behind the lawn with elephants. The restaurant is in the clubhouse.
Address
199/163 T.Maehea
Chiangmai 50100
www.saenkhamterrace.com
Taxi, touring, escorting in Chiengmai by English speaking driver in a private Honda Civic car, friendly local with good culture information, Patrick Smith 081 617 2116 (Overseas call 66 81 617 2116) or e-mail: neomart@gmail.com for further discussion or advance booking, thanks and welcome to Chiangmai, the #2 best cities 2010 voated in Leisure and Travel Magazine
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